I do wonder if that brute force solution doesn’t create weird temp fluctuations on a normal print. But I have no idea if it’s the same to heat two separate elements of 40W than just one of 70W. Definitely IF the bed can’t work for at least 1 nozzle, it sucks big time. I’m going to try disconnecting the secondary heating elements in both nozzle heating blocks and if this works I’ll try another power source.

Careful with UltiCreatr, they are an unreliable company. Not responding to emails, users report the same, as well missing deliveries. And no posts on their solution for a few months now. I’m another one who bought the kit from UltiCreatr and being left outside in the rain in terms of support -DOH!. So, I could get the second nozzle to work by digging the internet and the community pages here about dual extrusion and setting up printer profiles.

And – up to my personal standards – it works pretty well except the retractions length and settings. When I start the print everything works as expected unless I would like the printer to purge more material before starting the print. The printer begins with the base layer all 2 nozzles and then prints with the first ring with the PLA nozzle 2nd nozzle on standby temperature.

When the machine switches to the second extruder, the nozzles is heated and then is forwards the material into the nozzle, BUT its in my opinion not the retracted length, but a good amount less, so it takes about one layer of the wipetower and another half to one layer on the model for the material being forwarded enough to give a good extrusion.

That didn’t work. Only big knobs of material after retraction : Suggestions? Can that be a cause of the problem. I don’t think so, the problem is with PLA the same bit not that bad. Several month ago i bought Ulticreatr 2X. I knew it was not good according to some replies here , but desire to upgrade my printer and to make double coloured print prevailed. After it was delivered, I decided to postpone installation. Designers of the Ulticreatr 2X said that its feature didn’t allow to use heated bed.

So, i decided to study this problem first. I don’t want to describe all my way to double extrusion. It was thorny. Besides heated bed issue, neither firmware nor Cura modifications, presented by Ulticreatr 2X designers worked. The first it was firmware. Tinkergnome , thank you very much for your work. It is extremely useful and works excellent!!! It is then recommended to place the buildplate in water and thereby dissolve the adhesive. More information can be found here.

The adhesion is so strong that the sheet will tear after the removal of the first 3D print. A brim consists of extra lines printed around the perimeter of the initial layers of your model.

This ensures reliable adhesion to the build plate. Ultimaker TPU 95A is not prone to warping or delamination, and prints reliably without additional accessories. The filament can be dried following the recommendations described in this article. Ultimaker TPU 95A is safe to print when using the recommended temperature settings listed above.

Pet House3d model Birdhouse 3D Model FeederPillarA 3D Model Mixing Conveyor Hoppers Bird Feeder. Search for Feeder models. Row boat Case for Huawei P20 lite with holding ring Universal phone holder with rear USB storage U-CLIP print model Drain valve for sink Search for Anycubic models.

BMW i3 Please try again later. Verified Purchase. Its amazing. See all reviews. Top reviews from other countries.

Translate all reviews to English. Hut ab! Das machen die meisten zb. Alles in allem dauerte der Aufbau ca 1,5std und ist leicht von der Hand gegangen. Einziger Negativpunkt hier: Teilweise finde ich die Kabel ein paar cm zu kurz um sie sauber zusammen zu binden und am Gestell zu fixieren.

Sieht so einfach Unsauber aus. Geht aber. Tipp: Den Spulenhalter habe ich nicht nach “rechts weg” montiert sondern Richtung Display zeigend. Spart Platz in der Breite und geht sehr gut. Aber mit dem mitgeliefertem Werkzeug ist das in 5min passiert. Darunter auch der kleine Hund auf der Plattform in meinen Bildern.

Dort ist der Slicer Cura enthalten, der jedoch schon ein paar Versionen hinten dran ist. Ladet euch die aktuelle aus dem Netz kostenfrei Es waren auch noch andere Sachen drauf, da ich die SD-Karte mittlerweile aber formatiert habe, kann ich nicht mehr sagen, was genau. Der Space-Marine ist von Thingiverse und mit Cura gesliced. Druckdauer ca 5,5std. Und wenns nicht ab geht; die Spachtel liegt auch gleich mit im Set. Service: Sehr gut! Images in this review. Translate review to English.

Some weeks ago I decided to dip my toes into the world of 3D Printing, and spent some time looking at various 3D printers, reading reviews and watching You Tube video’s of the various printers available.

Initially I looked at large bed printers, thinking that I ‘may need it’ in the future, but, then I looked at the print times for files on said beds and decided that by the time I had waited for some of them to print I would have forgeotten what they were for. Eventually I focussed on Creality printers, the Ender 3 or the Ender 5. On reading reviews it transpired that the newer Ender 5 had built on some of the features of the Ender 3, plus the Ender 3 was in kit form and took a few hours to assemble, wheras the Ender 5 was partially assembled, so in went my order for the Ender 5.

The box was delivered by courier the next day, and on unpacking the first thing you see is the manual, the printer parts were laid out cleanly and securely and were easily removed from the packaging. Following the manual it was quite easy to assemble the kit, remember this was my very first printer so I was not too sure what to find, and after about 45 minutes it was all put together. The manual is well laid out and takes you through each step in sequence, and even highlighting ‘Points to be aware of’.

The frame is square and rigid, and on this printer the hot end is fixed at the top of the frame and it is the hotbed on the Z axis that lowers as the print progresses.

I am told that this is a more stable method of printing, but I have no personal experience of whether it is or isn’t. The printer is run from a control box on the lower right of the printer, and from there you can run your prints from the SD Card, do auto leveling of the hotbed, set temperatures etc etc.

When my first print was running I was surprised as to how noisy it wasn’t, I was expecting a lot of noise, but if I went out of the room and closed the door I couldn’t hear anything.

Get these right without belts attached first, if possible. Before testing, move the carriage and bed to the middle. If an axis is inverted, either flip the plug around or change its invert setting. This value raises Z to the specified height above the bed before homing X or Y. This is useful to prevent the head crashing into bed mountings such as screws, bulldog clips, etc. This also works with auto bed leveling enabled and will be triggered only when the Z axis height is less than the defined value, otherwise the Z axis will not move.

Most Cartesian and core machines have three min endstops. Deltas have three max endstops. For other configurations set these values appropriately. With Marlin you can directly specify the bed size. This allows Marlin to do extra logic related to the bed size when it differs from the movement limits below. If the XY carriage is able to move outside of the bed, you can specify a wider range below. These values specify the physical limits of the machine.

By default, these are used as your homing positions as well. Although home positions are fixed, M can be used to apply offsets to the home position if needed. For example, G1 Z can be min constrained to G1 Z0. It is recommended to enable these options as a safety feature. If software endstops need to be disabled, use M S0.

With this feature, a mechanical or opto endstop switch is used to check for the presence of filament in the feeder usually the switch is closed when filament is present. If the filament runs out, Marlin will run the specified G-code script by default M Assuming you already have a runout sensor switch based there, you can watch the pin states while toggling the runout sensor on an off to see which pin is changing.

Bed Leveling is a standard feature on many 3D printers. It takes the guess-work out of getting a good first layer and good bed adhesion. It is highly recommended to get your printer aligned and constrained as much as possible before using bed leveling, because it exists to compensate for imperfections in the hardware. For all the in-depth details please read the Auto Bed Leveling documentation and the G29 G-codes documentation.

Normally G28 causes leveling to be disabled, so you have to re-enable it with M S1 or G If you enable this option then G28 will make sure to turn leveling back on if it was enabled beforehand. Use this option to enable extra debugging of homing and leveling. You can then use M S32 before issuing G28 and G29 V4 to get a detailed log of the process for diagnosis.

This option is useful to figure out the cause of unexpected behaviors, or when reporting issues to the project. This option adds the Z parameter to M which sets a fade distance over which leveling will be gradually reduced.

Above the given Z height, leveling compensation will no longer be applied. Fading out leveling also reduces computational requirements and resonance from the Z axis above the fade height. For a well-aligned machine, this feature can improve print results. Example: To have leveling fade out over the first 10mm of layer printing use M Z If each layer is 0. Above 10mm the machine will move without compensation.

When using any of the mesh-based leveling systems 1. See G26 Mesh Validation for full details. The G26 command accepts parameters for nozzle size, layer height, etc. The sub-options above specify the default values that will be applied for omitted parameters. These options specify the default number of points to probe in each dimension during G These settings specify the boundaries for probing with G This will most likely be a sub-section of the bed because probes are not usually able to reach every point that the nozzle can.

So, outside the bounds of the probed grid, Z adjustment can take one of two approaches. Enable this option for extrapolation. If you have SRAM to spare, this option will multiply the resolution of the bilinear grid using the Catmull-Rom subdivision method. This option only applies to bilinear leveling. If the default value of 3 is too expensive, try 2 or 1.

In Marlin 1. These options specify the inset, grid, and 3-point triangle to use for UBL. Note that probe XY offsets and movement limits may constrain the probeable area of the bed. These options specify the number of points that will always be probed in each dimension during G The mesh inset is used to automatically calculate the probe boundaries. If Z is offset e. See the Configuration.

A custom script to do at the very end of G Enable this option if the bed center is at X0 Y0. These settings are used to override the home position. Leave them undefined for automatic settings. Z Safe Homing prevents Z from homing when the probe or nozzle is outside bed area by moving to a defined XY point by default, the middle of the bed before Z Homing when homing all axes with G As a side-effect, X and Y homing are required before Z homing.

If stepper drivers time out, X and Y homing will be required again. Enable this option if a probe not an endstop is being used for Z homing. Homing speed for use in auto home and auto bed leveling. These values may be set to the fastest speeds your machine can achieve. Homing and probing speeds are constrained by the current max feedrate and max acceleration settings.

Reducing acceleration may help to achieve higher top speeds. Correct for misalignment in the XYZ axes. See Configuration. Commands like M92 only change the settings in volatile memory, and these settings are lost when the machine is powered off. Settings saved to EEPROM with M are loaded automatically whenever the machine restarts and in most setups, when connecting to a host , overriding the defaults set in the configuration files.

This option is highly recommended, as it makes configurations easier to manage. Marlin 1. Uncomment to add the M Free Memory Watcher for debugging purposes. This option adds support for the G20 and G21 commands, allowing G-code to specify units in inches. Without this option all temperatures must be specified in Celsius units. Park the nozzle at the given XYZ position on idle or G Adds the G12 command to perform a nozzle cleaning process. Also adds the following commands to control the timer:.

This information can be viewed by the M78 command. See language. This option applies only to character-based displays. This option overrides the default number of encoder pulses needed to produce one step. Should be increased for high-resolution encoders. This option reverses the encoder direction everywhere. This option reverses the encoder direction for navigating LCD menus. By default Marlin assumes you have a buzzer with a fixed frequency. If you have a speaker that can produce tones, enable it here.

The duration and frequency for the UI feedback sound. Set these to 0 to disable audio feedback in the LCD menus. Marlin includes support for several controllers. The two most popular controllers supported by Marlin are:. Most other LCD controllers are variants of these. Enable just one of the following options for your specific controller:. Use software PWM to drive the fan, as with the heaters.

 
 

 

Ulti 3 extended feeder issues – Ultimaker 3D printers – Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts.Configuring Marlin | Marlin Firmware

 
This is due to the fact that some of the settings depend heavily on the individual printer and filament. The PID values you get from M may be very different, but will be better ultimaker 3 feeder einstellen free download your specific machine. So far, no third party dual extrusion kit has been reported to work smoothly from a independent source here on the forum if I’m wrong, please correct me with reeder link. Aber mit dem mitgeliefertem Werkzeug ist das in 5min passiert. Alles in allem dauerte der Aufbau ca 1,5std und ist leicht von der Hand gegangen.